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Ernie's '99 Dakar/Dove M3

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  • Ernie's '99 Dakar/Dove M3

    I have owned this 1999 Dakar Yellow E36 M3 coupe (my second one) which has ~167,000 miles since September 2019. I bought it from a friend in Illinois. All body panels are original, as is most of the paint. The driver rear quarter shows some minor paintwork, but there is no indication of significant body work. According to information I found on line, this is one of 18 Dakar Yellow cars with the Dove Grey interior, making it pretty rare.

    All the major mechanical systems were checked and repaired as needed by Kinetic Motors, an independent BMW shop in St. Louis, prior to the car being driven to Florida. Included was a new drive shaft, rear suspension ball joints and bushings, stainless brake lines, Vanos rebuild, clutch fan, fluid changes, shifter overhaul, and some other things. NOTE: I usually would do this work myself, but chose to have the work done prior to the car being driven down by my son, to reduce the risk of a breakdown.


    My plan for the car was to improve the cosmetics (I’m OCD that way) and any mechanical or electrical issues so that I can enjoy driving it. I have often said that working in the garage is my therapy. Cars are projects for me – determine what I want (or react to one that becomes available), find one in decent shape that needs no major mechanical or body work, then go over the entire car, making a list of the needs, wants, and nice-to-haves. Triage follows once that list is complete – what needs to be done first. Then I figure out how to accomplish whatever it is that needs to be done, and where to buy parts if needed for the best price and delivery time. Very much project management 101.

    To make what should be a short story even longer, when I was approached to help start the Four Car Garage Motorsports endurance racing team and build the racecar for use in ChumpCar (now ChampCar), an E36 325is, I was already very familiar with the platform, having owned my Z3 (an E36/7) for 10 years and worked on virtually all the car’s mechanical systems, either through routine or preventive/predictive maintenance. Working on the racecar was easy for me – I knew wrench sizes, how to take apart and reassemble stuff, what problem areas to look after, where to get good quality parts, etc. Another influence on my acquiring knowledge of the E36 was a friend with a BMW shop asked me on several occasions to help dismantle junk E36s so that he could sell useable parts. My forte was that I could disassemble things like a dash without tearing up the parts. Removing things like a dash also gave me access to areas I would not normally have access to. I’ve been told that I have x-ray vision when it comes to cars, and that I have “eyes on my fingertips” because I can “see” nuts and bolts that need to be removed/replaced with my fingers, even when they are hidden. It also helped that the race car owner and one of the other team members were familiar with BMWs, having owned several including a couple of E36 M3s. We learned a lot from each other, the synergy was strong. About 6 months into the team’s formation I found my first E36 M3 on Craigslist for a very low amount of money because it needed some work. Let’s just say that between the Z3, the racecar, and my M3, I became even more intimate with the E36 platform. And I joined several forums to get an even greater sense of everything E36 M3.

    So when I bought this M3, I was mentally capable and prepared to do the necessary repairs. I was able to get it licensed and insured prior to the drive down, which allowed my son, who is the office manager for Kinetic Motors, to test drive the car prior to, during, and after the repairs to ensure all systems were a go before his trip to Florida with it. The documentation here of work I have personally done to the car began in October 2019 and continues through the present day. The first set of pictures is just prior to my purchase, and before any work was done on it.


    I hope you enjoy the ride.

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  • #2
    The first thing I did when the car arrived was to wash it. I used Zymol Clear car wash with a synthetic wash mitt which removed the accumulated road dust and dirt from the trip down. I sized up the work needed to clean the paintwork and add wax as a protectant. The first thing I noticed was there seemed to be overspray on the sides of the car, and as far as I can tell the overspray was from some of spray applied to the black side moldings, since there was a space about the width of painter’s tape on each side of the strips. And beyond the tape was overspray. I used Goof Off to remove the overspray. I also used Goof Off to remove tar and other material from the lower parts of the car. Then I clayed the car, using Griot’s Clay Bar with their Speed Shine as a lubricant. Zymol HD Cleanse was next, which is a mild polish that adds oils to refresh the paint. I followed that up with Zymol Carbon Wax. I’ve used Zymol on all of my BMWs and have found it to provide the best shine and protection.

    Then I began diagnosing why the key would not turn the trunk lock. The car came with a remote which locks/unlocks the car, including the trunk. And the remote worked fine on the trunk. My concern was the key didn’t work as designed - the trunk lock can be set, with the key, so that even if the doors are unlocked with the remote the trunk remains locked. My first thought was that the lock had been replaced and not keyed to the rest of the car, or that the tumblers themselves were dirty. I had prior experience with door locks on my ‘95 M3 when I had to replace both door handles, and I was not able to move the key cylinders from the old handles to the new due to a design difference. I had to transfer the key tumblers from the old cylinders to the new so that I could use the same key, that also fit the ignition, trunk, and glove box. Transferring tumblers requires concentration and patience (you don’t want to run out of either one while doing tumbler work). I was thinking that I could check the tumblers to see if they matched up with the key, so I removed and disassembled the lock assembly. Before I pursued disassembly of the lock itself to get to the tumblers, I sprayed Fluid Film, my penetrant of choice, all over the obvious moving parts, and shot some into the lock cylinder to possibly free up stuck tumblers. While I was moving the key in and out of the cylinder, hoping that if the tumblers were seized that would free them up, I detected the slightest bit of rotation in the lock assembly. Rocking the key back and forth I was able to free up the cylinder, which evidently had corroded and became stuck. No need to dig into the tumblers. Success!

    I reassembled the lock assembly to the trunk lid. There are two rods that attach to the lock assembly, one from the actuator that works to lock/unlock the trunk with the remote, and one that goes from an assembly the lock button moves to the actual lock mechanism itself. When you turn the key to lock or unlock the trunk, it powers the actuator which moves an assembly within the lock that blocks or unblocks the push button. The push button presses against a flat metal piece that moves the latch to open the trunk. Both rods are held in place with plastic retainers. The retainer for the lock button broke (plastic becomes brittle with age), with the actuator retainer still working fine. So I had to improvise the securing of the lock rod and used a couple of wire ties until the correct replacement was delivered. When it arrived a couple of days later, I replaced the broken/rigged retainer with a new one, and reassembled the rest of the pieces to the trunk lid.

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    Last edited by 2manycars; 04-16-2020, 04:41 PM.

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    • #3
      One of the first things I noticed after the car arrived in Florida was the “filler-flap actuator” for the fuel door (BMW calls it a “fill-in flap”) did not lock the fuel door when the doors/trunk were lock. The car does not have a locking gas cap, and I like to secure the car, including the fuel door, when parked outside. The actuator is in the trunk and pushes a plastic rod into a metal slot on the fuel door when the car is locked. The actuator is located on the passenger side, above the battery, behind a trim panel which is easily removed. I checked the actuator, and the plastic rod was missing. I verified that the actuator worked, and then began to think about what happened to the rod. Thinking about my black ‘95 M3, I remembered that if you drop something in the battery area it can eventually wind up in the spare tire well – there is a space below metal support brackets connecting the two compartments. So I removed the spare tire, and there was the plastic rod! I installed it onto the actuator, used some dielectric grease to lubricate the rubber bushing it goes through to get to the fuel door, and put the trunk back together. Success!

      Next up was replacing the cabin air filter and diagnosing a stuck glove box push button. In their infinite wisdom, BMW put the cabin air filter up under the center of the dash. Once you remove the glovebox, it takes some minor disassembling of the area around the glove box to get to the filter - an air duct, and a plastic connection point for a huge bundle of wires. I had done this before on my black M3, so I knew what to do on my new M3. The filter was filthy, and I used a vacuum to clean out the filter box. An interesting factoid: Because of the location of the cabin air filter, there is not a straight shot to the filter box where it resides. The filter is made with a couple of slits in its plastic frame that allow it to bend without distorting the frame so that the filter can be installed. Cheaper, I guess, than reengineering the filter box for easier access.

      And then I took on the glove box button. When opening the glove box, the button would stay pushed in, meaning the glove box would not latch and stay closed. It took some fiddling to get the button to pop back out so the glove box door didn’t open while driving. I was thinking soda or some other sticky liquid got in there, so with the glove box assembly already out for access to the cabin air filter I pulled off the panel that housed the button and latch assembly. What I found was that the button was missing a spring, because tabs which prevented the button from coming out were broken off. At some point in its past, someone opened the glove box, the tabs broke, the spring shot out and was lost, and they lived with the stuck button. I ordered a new button and spring that arrived yesterday, but as a temporary fix I created my own “spring” by stuffing some foam insulation behind the button and securing it with a wire-tie. It worked fine. When the new button and spring arrived, I installed them. Another successful day.

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      • #4
        Before I get into the repair of the non-functional key lock on the driver door of my “99 M3, let’s talk about how the locking system contains mechanical and electrical components that work together. Each door, and the trunk lid, can be locked/unlocked with the remote, or by key. The electrical and mechanical systems are connected so that when you turn the key you work the mechanical aspects of the locks as well as activate the electrical locking system that transfers the mechanical motion at the doors/trunk into the same motion at the other locking points. It does this through rods that connect the mechanical action of turning the key to the electronic actuators at each locking point. The actuators are connected through a module that coordinates locking/unlocking throughout the car. Likewise, when you use the remote, both doors and the trunk lock/unlock via their actuators. As an aside, the central locking system module (BMW calls it the Central Body Electronics) is linked to the alarm system, and you can also use it to close any open windows and the sunroof.

        On my car, the remote locked and unlocked the two doors and the trunk lid. As mentioned before, before I repaired it, the trunk lock was seized so that I could not lock the trunk with the key, but it did lock with the remote. The driver door key turned but did not lock or unlock the door, although the remote did. So I was thinking that there was an electrical, but no mechanical, connection between the door lock and the latch, and therefore no connection with the actuator. I was correct!

        I removed the door panel, peeled back the vapor barrier, and looked up inside the door. I saw a dangling rod that was connected to the lock, but not to the latch. As you turn the key, the rod moves up and down, locking and unlocking the door. With the rod hanging loose, the key was unable to move the rod. The solution was to reconnect the rod to the door latch. But in this case, seeing what is wrong and fixing it is easier said than done – there is very little space because of a window channel that is in the way, and all of this is happening at the very top of the door with very little room to spare. Plus, the rod could not be reinserted into the plastic retainer since there is a narrow space that’s helps keep the rod in place. One unanswered question is how the rod escaped from the confined space it is normally in. I verified that the latch worked by using the remote to lock and unlock it (remember, the latch is connected to the actuator). And I could see the rod move when I turned the key.

        I solved the lack of space to insert the rod into its plastic retainer by bending back a piece of metal that I believe is designed so that you can bend it back in order to provide enough room to install the rod. The rod fit perfectly, I bent the metal back into place, and verified that both the key and remote locked and unlocked not only the door but the entire car. Mission accomplished. Now all doors, the trunk, and fuel door lock and unlock as they were designed to. Plus, the window and sunroof closure function as well as the alarm system are functional.

        Before I reinstalled the door panel, I used contact cement to re-adhere a couple of parts to the panel. BMWs from that era used “recyclable” material to make the backing for the door panels. Plastic pieces to which the plastic door clips are retained, a long bar at the top of the panel that keeps the panel retained at the top, and the upholstery are all glued to the panel. Over time, heat and moisture plus opening and closing the door causing the parts to begin separated. The contact cement did its job, and the door panel went back on without issues.


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        • #5
          I tackled the replacement of what I call the cowl cover, a semi-flexible plastic piece that fits over the windshield wiper assembly across the cowl of the car. It protects the wiper assembly from the elements but has holes for the wiper pivots to pass through. It also has an opening to the interior air intake which is near the base of the windshield. The cover seals against the lower part of the windshield so that water and debris are diverted from the area immediately below the windshield. This prevents accumulation of leaves and other debris which can clump up, retain moisture, and eventually cause rust. The cover is made of two types of plastic – one is semi-rigid and provides all but about an inch of coverage. The remaining inch, at the top portion of the cover, is more flexible so it can conform to the windshield contour and provide a watertight seal.

          Replacing the cowl cover takes several steps – it is not just an R&R (remove and replace). First, the wiper arms must be removed. I put painters tape at the upper edge of the blades as markers so that I could reinstall the assemblies in the same place. I removed the nuts and flat washers holding the arms on, and then used a wiper arm puller to remove the arms. The wiper arms and the wiper pivots to which they attach are splined so that during movement the arms do not spin around the pivots. Sometimes corrosion is present which makes it a little difficult to remove the arms. The one on the passenger side of my car was a little tight, so I sprayed some Fluid Film on it and let it soak for a few minutes. The arm then came off with the help of the puller.

          The hood hinges have to be loosened to make clearance for the cover to be removed. The cover attaches to the lower corners of the windshield and there is not enough room to remove and replace the cover without moving the hinges forward. Before I moved the hinges, I put painters tape along the edges of the hood and fenders, since I would be using wrenches to loosen the hinge bolts and did not want to accidentally scratch the paint. Once the hinges were loose I removed the six plastic retainers that hold the cover in place. 4 of them unscrew, two are a press fit. Then I lifted the rear edge of the cover to release the four plastic clips that secure the rear to the body. Then the cover came out, one side at a time.

          Installation of the new piece was basically a reversal of removal. I used new clips and grommets for the rear of the cover, reinstalled the six plastic retainers, and reattached the wipers. Cosmetically it made a huge difference, but it also provides better protection against water and debris intrusion into the cowl area.

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          • #6
            Good work so far. Some of your images are not working.

            MSportParts | Braymond141

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            • #7
              Braymond141 - How can I fix the image issue? They were there yesterday. EDIT: I reloaded the images and it seems to be working now.
              Last edited by 2manycars; 04-03-2020, 10:44 AM.

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              • #8
                One of the first “major” things I did when I got the M3 was to try to salvage the stock/staggered Contours that the previous owner has Plasti-Dipped black. The Plasti-Dip was starting to peel off on a couple of the wheels and I did some research into how to safely remove the coating without damaging the finish on the wheels. I tried what I had in the garage – WD-40, mineral spirits, Goo-Gone, and electrical contact cleaner.

                Since the centers on each of the wheels was not peeling, I decided to see if I could remove the coating from just the outside of the rim. The contact cleaner did the trick, the others did basically nothing. With the car in the air, I sprayed from about 4-7o’clock on the wheel, let it set for a couple of minutes, and then sprayed it again. With the spray puddled on the lower part of the wheel I was able to use a rag to rub the coating off. It did not always come off in big sheets, but was kind of like when you use a pumice stone to remove dead skin from the bottom of your feet. I stopped removing coating at the point where the center meets the rim. Then I turned the wheel and started on the next section. It took about an hour per wheel, and I think they turned out fantastic.

                My long-term plan is that when it is time for new tires, I will take the rims to a tire store, have the tires dismounted, and then bring the wheels home to finish the Plasti-dip removal. They are coated front and back, so it will take some time to complete the job. But because I am OCD about my cars, I plan to keep the stock wheels, repair some slight curb rash, and refinish them if needed.



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                • #9
                  On the test drive before I bought it, I noticed the Anti-lock-brake (ABS) and Anti-Skid Control (ASC) warning lights did not go out each time the car was started. By staying lit once the engine starts, the lights indicate there is a fault within either/both systems (they work together). The lights are supposed to go out if the systems are functioning properly.

                  There are a couple of problem areas that can cause the lights to stay on. The first is the wheel speed sensors and/or their corresponding toothed ring found at each wheel. The sensors constantly send pulses to the ABS/ASC module. If one wheel is turning slower than the rest, the sensor transmits an electronic signal to the module so that the brakes do not lock up during braking. If one of the rear wheels is turning faster than the other, it will apply the brake to that wheel to prevent skidding, and when the second rear wheel nears the limit of adhesion it reduces engine power. The potential problem is that the sensors get dirty (they use a magnetic field to generate their signal) which interferes with the signal. Or they can fail electronically. The sensor rings can also get dirty.

                  The second potential problem area is the brake pedal travel sensor. It is attached to the brake booster, and it sends a signal to the ABS/ASC module as you press the pedal. Similar to a fuel gauge sender, as you push the pedal it changes the resistance of the signal sent to the module, basically telling the module how much to modulate the braking based on how hard you are on the pedal. A problem occurs when the connector pins inside the sensor that are soldered to the circuit board work themselves loose. The problem can be constant or intermittent. The sensors are fairly expensive to buy (~$140.00 depending on the source) but can be easy to repair. I successfully repaired the one on my ’95 M3.

                  The third area is the ABS/ASC module itself. The same problem with solder joints in the brake pedal sensor can manifest itself in the module. It, too, can be repaired, although it is more difficult than the brake pedal sensor. There are companies that specialize in their repair.

                  With all that said, I decided to try to clean the wheel speed sensors. I was able to get both front ones out with no issues. They were both dirty, and a little brake cleaner did the trick. But I could not remove the rear sensors, they were stuck in their respective holes.

                  While removing the front wheels I noticed that the right (passenger) wheel was harder to turn than the left (driver) wheel, and I suspected a sticking brake caliper. The spare parts included with the sale of the car included 2 new front caliper pistons and two new front rebuild kits. There was also one new rear piston and two new rear kits. When I removed the right caliper and tried to push the piston back into the caliper it was quite rusty/corroded and would not move. I decided to remove the caliper and, using one of the new pistons and rebuild kits, make it like new. Of course, I ran the risk that the caliper bore that the piston fits into would be corroded and not usable without machining/relining. But I pressed on, regardless.

                  I got the piston out by pressing on the brake pedal, using a piece of wood to prevent the piston from coming all the way out, then a rag to cushion the piston when it came out and to trap any brake fluid. Once the piston was out, I removed the brake line from the caliper, and started to clean up the caliper, inside and out. There are two grooves in the caliper bore – one for the seal that seals the piston, the other that prevents debris/liquid from entering the caliper. Both grooves were dirty, the outside one way more than the inside one. I used a dental pick to get the big stuff out, then a 3M wheel attached to my air grinder to get the rest of the gunk and rust out. I also used a 3M grey pad to clean the bore itself, which was not really too bad, just discolored. The new piston slipped right in without resistance.

                  After removing the bleeder screw I did a final cleaning of the caliper with brake cleaner, including the fluid passages for the brake line and bleeder screw, and blew it off with compressed air. I then installed the piston seal into the bore, and installed the dust seal onto the piston. I used brake fluid to lube everything up, and installed the piston into the caliper, seating the dust seal into its groove before proceeding. I used a C-clamp to gently squeeze the new piston past the bore seal, and ensured the other end of the dust seal fit into its groove on the piston. And then reinstalled the caliper. I used a pressure bleeder to bleed the caliper, and since I had blocked off the brake line to prevent fluid loss/air entry, it didn’t take much fluid or time to complete the job.

                  Both front wheels now turn with about the same amount of resistance. The car also lost a slight vibration at highway speeds, which was probably caused by the sticking caliper.

                  But the ABS/ASC lights are still coming on intermittently, so I have more work to do. My next project will be to test the brake pedal sensor to see if it is working properly (there is information on the internet on the values I should see as the pedal is depressed).

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                  • #10
                    I decided to do a little more cleaning of the exterior. I already had clayed, used Zymol H-D Cleanse and Carbon wax, and touched up a few rock chips. I removed both rear taillights (4x8mm nuts on each assembly), and found a pile of dirt and crud, very possibly 21 years’ worth! I used car wash soap and water to clean the body, and then worked on the taillight assemblies, being careful not to get reckless with the water, which, if it got into the lens, would be unsightly and could corrode the electrical connections. I used Zymol HD Cleanse on the paint, and then put Zymol Carbon Wax on. I finished up by using Mothers CMX Ceramic Spray Coating to help prevent new dirt and crud from sticking to the surface behind the light assemblies. I used Griots Rubber and Vinyl dressing on the gaskets. No one will probably ever notice that I cleaned behind the lights, but it does my OCD good to know it’s clean. The sunlight coming into the garage bleached a couple of the photos. The darker shade of yellow is correct.

                    While inside the trunk, I removed the spare to clean up the dirt and debris in the spare tire well that I had not yet taken care of. I had previously removed the spare to look for the errant fuel door locking pin that luckily had fallen into the spare tire well. How it came free from its solenoid I do not know. But I decided to put the spare back in after finding the pin, without cleaning the spare tire well. Once the tire was removed, I removed the cover for the charcoal canister that is part of the emissions control system. A quick vacuum, a wipe down with Griots Speed Shine, and reassembly, and the spare tire well looks acceptable. On a side note, I found a NAMCO arcade coin while cleaning down there. Who knows how or when it made its way into the spare tire well. Some info can be found here: https://en.numista.com/catalogue/pieces111333.html

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                    • #11
                      On a rainy, “Safer at Home” day, I decided to strip the rear wheels of the Plasti-Dip that remained on the centers of the Contour wheels. As I discussed in a previous post, when I got the car I decided to remove the Plasti-Dip from the outside edge of the rims where it was coming off. My original plan was to have the tires dismounted and then strip the rest of the Plasti-Dip from the inside as well as the outside of the wheels.

                      I again used aerosol electrical contact cleaner, spraying it on, letting it soak in, and then respraying it and using a terry cloth towel to remove the Plasti-Dip. I was careful to keep the contact cleaner away from the stick-on wheel weights and the little M emblems in the center. I then used Wheel Wax on the clean wheels. Other than the curb rash, which I intend to repair later, I think the wheels look great.

                      Next up is the fronts.

                      Before
                      Before

                      First After
                      After (the first phase)

                      In process
                      In process

                      After
                      After.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        21 Years of use left the grey carpets in pretty sad shape. Between the coffee and soda stains, and general dirt and grime, it was a mess. I decided to remove the seats and use a steam cleaner to see how clean I could get the carpet. I rented a steam cleaner from Home Depot, pre-treating the stains with Zep high-traffic carpet spot cleaner. I used towels to soak up the remaining moisture after using the steam cleaner, which also helped remove the stains. I did this several times – steam, then towels, then steam, then towels. I am satisfied with the results.
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                        Passenger rear. Ugly mess.

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                        Much better.

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                        Lots of coffee has been spilled in 21 years.

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                        Not bad.

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                        Passenger footwell.

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                        Nicer than the before shot.

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                        The driver footwell. Oh, my!

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                        Cleaning in progress.
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                        Much better.
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                        Driver rear.

                        Comment


                        • #13

                          Even though I had previously cleaned the front speed sensors with the hope that that would help with the intermittent ABS/ASC light, cleaning them did not solve the problem. I checked the brake pedal travel sensor, which seemed to read properly. Still no resolution for the ABS/ASC intermittent light. It would go off for around 10 starts, then come back on, but go out after about 5 miles of driving if I shut it off and turned it back on. So I decided to order 4 new speed sensors thinking that perhaps there was a bad wire in the system, and new clips to attach the speed sensor and brake sensor wiring to the struts. They had been secured with zip ties.

                          The front speed sensors went in without a glitch. The rears, however, were stuck. I was able to wiggle the passenger side and install the new sensor in a matter of minutes. The driver side, not so much. I had to break it apart and dig the pieces out. A tangle of copper wiring is all that is left of the old sensor. I used dielectric grease on all wiring connections.

                          When I ordered the speed sensors and clips, I also ordered a new front brake pad sensor. The front brake sensor was not connected to the brake pad. When I tried to replace the front brake pad sensor, I found the connection with the car’s wiring to be broken. Perhaps that is why the sensor was not connected to the brake pad. What had happened is the connector on the car side was brittle and was in a bunch of pieces. I found a used one and soldered it onto the car’s wiring, and installed the new sensor. I also found that the brake pad warning light was not working when I turned on the key (it wasn’t working when I got the car, but I did not notice). I pulled the cluster and checked the bulb’s continuity. It was bad, so I ordered and installed a new bulb. It now works as it should.

                          Since installing the speed sensors, the ABS/ASC systems seem to be working properly – the warning lights go of and stay off during vehicle operation and have been going off for several months now. I no longer have to go around sharp corners carefully for fear of spinning the rear wheels.

                          Working on the brake caliper and replacing speed sensors, I spent some time under the wheel wells of the M3 which had accumulated a lot of dirt over its 21-year life. I like to keep things clean because the cleaner you keep things the easier it is to keep things clean. So I cleaned them up as best I could without using a hose or pressure washer (I am environmentally conscious, especially since moving to Florida).

                          I used Simple Green, a scrub brush, and rags to wipe down and clean things up. Then I used a hand-held sprayer to rinse the wheel wells with water, and then wiped them down one more time.

                          Griot's Undercarriage Spray was then sprayed over the cleaned area, which helps make the black plastic fender liners and other areas inside the wheel wells look new again. I captured what little liquid fell from the car (using the rag absorbed most of the liquid) by using a drip pan with kitty litter in it. I tossed the dirty rags and dried kitty litter into the trash.

                          I had to perform a minor repair while under the passenger wheel well – when removing the plastic fender liner one of the studs used to secure the liner and junction box for the wheel speed sensor broke when removing the nut. I elected to drill a hole next to the broken stud and use a screw that BMW uses to secure most of the underbody panels. It worked out fine.

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                          The guts from the driver rear speed sensor.

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                          Zip tied sensor wiring.

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                          The used wiring connector for the front brake pad sensor soldered to the car's wiring.
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                          The repaired wiring safely tucked away. I zip-tie the connection box for added safety.
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                          New brake pad sensor bulb waiting for installation.
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                          The lower reading of the brake pedal travel sensor, within spec.
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                          The upper level, also within spec.

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                          Passenger front fender well before cleaning.
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                          After cleaning.
























                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Nice updates! Good job bringing this back to a presentable state.

                            MSportParts | Braymond141

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Good read, it's coming along nicely.

                              Kinetic Motors (Jon Eye) in STL is the man. He worked on my M3 when I lived in St. Louis. Super nice guy, very knowledgeable. I recommend him to anyone in the area.

                              Past: '99 Hellrot/Dove M3/2/5 | '97 S14 1JZ | '06 Triumph Daytona 675 | '01 330I M-Tech I | Current: '96 Estoril/Black M3/2/5

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