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Chris's Journey to find.. "The One"

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  • #16
    That black 996 photo has been floating across my feeds a couple times this week. Glad to see 996's are making a "comeback."

    Past: '99 Hellrot/Dove M3/2/5 | '97 S14 1JZ | '06 Triumph Daytona 675 | '01 330I M-Tech I | Current: '96 Estoril/Black M3/2/5

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    • #17
      Originally posted by Mike0032 View Post
      That black 996 photo has been floating across my feeds a couple times this week. Glad to see 996's are making a "comeback."
      haha thats great to hear! they're slowly coming back as theyve become fairly affordable

      it does help a lot that magnus walker just made a video about his most recently purchased 996 c2 which he said(in the video) that he prefers over his 996 gt3 and 996 gt2

      but i do gotta say... the porsche parts market makes bmw parts prices look like child's play. everything and anything is expensive. budget builds are almost impossible to do. gonna be a tough build for sure. i'm very excited for it though

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      • #18
        Great looking 996. I spent a couple weeks with one thanks to the producer, when my e36 met an "unfortunate circumstance."
        It was a great car, and even though 996 is the "ugly duckling" of the 911, thats like being the least attractive playmate of the year. To be honest though if I could have any that I actually had to pay for myself, it would be an easy choice as the front runner.

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        • #19
          966 is making a comeback because it is the only affordable 911 left. Not for much longer.

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          • #20
            Originally posted by Westopher View Post
            Great looking 996. I spent a couple weeks with one thanks to the producer, when my e36 met an "unfortunate circumstance."
            It was a great car, and even though 996 is the "ugly duckling" of the 911, thats like being the least attractive playmate of the year. To be honest though if I could have any that I actually had to pay for myself, it would be an easy choice as the front runner.
            Ugly duckling or not.. someone of the most iconic porsches to date came from the 996 *cough* GT1 *cough*

            personally I don’t find them ugly.. I actually like the headlights on the early models (I dont like the headlight prices tho LOL)

            Originally posted by TexaZ3 View Post
            966 is making a comeback because it is the only affordable 911 left. Not for much longer.
            The market will always leave the Boxster as the affordable Porsche
            though they do share front ends visually, the Boxster has already gone up in value as an entry level MR track car. They perform great for the money

            996 911 is on a different ballgame when it comes to performance compared to the 986 Boxster.. and with these prices, I wouldnt Be surprised to see them right next to e36/46 m3 and s2000 during all those time attack challenges




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            • #21
              Originally posted by sasquatchola View Post

              Ugly duckling or not.. someone of the most iconic porsches to date came from the 996 *cough* GT1 *cough*

              personally I don’t find them ugly.. I actually like the headlights on the early models (I dont like the headlight prices tho LOL)



              The market will always leave the Boxster as the affordable Porsche
              though they do share front ends visually, the Boxster has already gone up in value as an entry level MR track car. They perform great for the money

              996 911 is on a different ballgame when it comes to performance compared to the 986 Boxster.. and with these prices, I wouldnt Be surprised to see them right next to e36/46 m3 and s2000 during all those time attack challenges



              That is why I said affordable 911.

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              • #22
                small-ish update:

                here's an obligatory picture with the wheels on. car definitely needs to be lowered lol



                quick summary of what happened over the past two-ish weeks

                i went back to my jdm side and got a few things from japan and also found a black center console and black handbrake assembly for dirt cheap

                first off:

                Works Bell Short Hub straight outta japan

                To my knowledge this is the ONLY hub on the 993/986/996 market that keeps your clock spring and requires zero wiring modifications
                It is also the only hub on the market that does not require a spacer to use on a 986/996.
                The Works Bell Short Hub is one of three short hubs on the market for this platform, and one of two that keeps your horn.. the other one being NRG which would require some modification to use with the oem 996 gt3 cup horn wiring hardware
                Lastly... also the most expensive hub on the market coming in at around $300ish vs $100ish for most other hubs

                on the bright side, i dont have to use the oem gt3 cup hardware i purchased to run horn wiring for a momo hub.

                The Works Bell hub is of arguably better quality than the momo/sparco alternative.. i wont even talk about the NRG hub's quality here compared to this stuff.

                another plus..it comes with almost every tool needed to install the hub. Even the air bag light defeat! All you need is a ratchet/extension and a socket to match the steering shaft nut(differs between models)




                and one small modification needed is to bend the clock spring lock a bit, as the Works Bell hub does not have a protrusion on the hub to push the lock out when the hub is installed.

                This lock is simply to keep the clock spring oriented when a steering wheel is not installed on the vehicle. it's also completely reversible.




                and with the hub on, i temporarily installed a steering wheel to hold while i tightened the center nut



                next up i installed my works bell rapfix gtc pop up/quick tilt
                this is a piece ive kept since my black ae86. i love this thing. great conversation starter at track and at most car shows/meets/events lol






                and now my second item from Japan.

                nearly minty condition Italvolanti x OZ Racing Superturismo

                the built date of 06/1997 wouldve made this perfect for my e36 m3

                i feel it was only right to try and run something period correct(they made limited numbers of this steering wheel through the early 2000s).. plus they match my wheels and the whole black/yellow theme i am going for







                and finally.. the black center console.

                second easiest console ive ever installed(first being my ae86's center console lol)





                there will be more black interior pieces coming in the future. i tend to buy the stuff that has a lower priority level(interior, aesthetics etc) when i find a good deal. my interior guy stopped taking orders until mid June so im stuck with that ugly tan shift knob/boot combination thing until he opens up for more orders. hopefully it will give me time to save up for a short shifter and shifter cables since my shift cables are stretched and the OEM shifter assembly is designs to last about 4-5 years of normal use before the plastic bushings tend start having some slack. Under track abuse(hard shifting) people have even seen oem units wear out within a year.

                a common upgrade is a 997 gt3 shifter. still mostly plastic everywhere, but some key components are metal. a popular upgrade is a numeric shifter which is my plan. the expensive upgrade is the CAE Ultra Shifter... that's $2k i can put elsewhere for now.

                i am purchasing more and more things to install with my gt2/3 coilovers so hopefully those will go on soon!

                i am also saving up to get an IMS Bearing Solution(permanent fix to a known m96 engine issue), updated Rear Main Seal, upgraded engine and trans mounts, Sachs clutch, water pump/thermostat, and possibly even new timing chain guides(i need to inspect everything first)

                the one thing that sucks with the IMS Bearing Solution is that to get the warranty with it, it needs to be installed at a certified shop.. and it's one of those things where once it's out, theres no extra labor charge for your RMS and clutch.

                So a shop might be doing that work for me. it's expensive. i can buy my e36 m3 again with that money LOL

                Before diving this deep into the engine, the same shop will be performing a very thorough inspection of the vehicle and really dive into the engine and trans. It's not a cheap inspection and takes about two days worth of labor. As much as i like to be knowledgeable of things, this is all new territory for me, and after the inspection, they will be going over the entire car with me. Depending on how the inspection turns out, it might not even be worth dumping money into this engine if it's on the way out.

                I'm fairly positive the engine is healthy and well, and there are a large number of 3.4 m96's way past the 200k mark(im at 173k). The number of damaged engines is FAR higher than those that survived... bore scoring is an issue with these puppies

                if the engine is as good as done, there's no point in throwing money at it. engine rebuild can cost anywhere from 10-15k (typically closer to 15k). If i had the space to pull the engine and rebuild it myself, it would still cost an upward of 7-8k.

                if im pulling this motor out, i want something better in there. not that the m96 isnt good.. but i know an m97 3.8l bolts right... and with all the porsche gurus available in socal, i know wiring and ecu tuning will not be an issue either.. just a small hint of what might be in store...

                anyways.. enough rant and talk. hope you guys enjoyed this little update!

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                • #23
                  Hmm, not sure if this wheel fits the overall feel and look of the interior tbh.

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by TexaZ3 View Post
                    Hmm, not sure if this wheel fits the overall feel and look of the interior tbh.
                    it definitely doesnt.. at least not yet.

                    at this point ive decided pretty much every bit of tan interior will be gone eventually.

                    yellow and tan dont mix well at all.. so it all needs to go if im keeping this wheel

                    with black carpet, black dash/door panels and gt3 buckets itll seem a bit more at home

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                    • #25
                      Good luck with the Porsche! Should be a lot of fun albeit just a tad more expensive to modify and service than an E36 M3 . Myself, I've wanted a Cayman for a while now.

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by JitteryJoe View Post
                        Good luck with the Porsche! Should be a lot of fun albeit just a tad more expensive to modify and service than an E36 M3 . Myself, I've wanted a Cayman for a while now.
                        thanks!.. a "tad" more expensive is right hahah

                        small update. nothing major. ran across a used low mileage 997 turbo shifter and a black leather shift knob for about 1/4 the cost they normally go for. had to jump on it

                        shifter doesnt really change much.. but i can tell you the bushings are in much healthier condition than my old worn out ones.

                        as you can see it's designed slightly different, but for the most part is identical

                        the black leather shift knob definitely completes the center console

                        my old shifter up front and the new 997 shifter behind it



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                        • #27
                          Nice.

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                          • #28
                            Been a while since i've been here!
                            Got busy collecting parts and since my brother moved back in recently, the garage has been a complete mess.
                            My uncle also gave me his backup 3d printer since he purchased a new one and his backup was replaced by a much fancier backup lol
                            Been designing a few things here and there(Keychains, shift knobs etc) and even designed a normal sized cup holder for the 996! I don't have any pictures right now but will take some asap!

                            Finally got around to organizing things in the garage a bit to work on the car.

                            Found another piece of the dashboard for dirt cheap. Cleaned it up and installed it.

                            Slowly but surely I will have some sort of odd two-tone interior that will hopefully work in my favor lol



                            and all my new suspension components arrived so i got to assembling everything and setting them up before throwing them on the car

                            I had purchased 996 GT2 Coilovers and the fronts were complete while the rears were missing the top hats and some hardware.

                            I found this very odd, as the front top mounts are a very sought after piece in the 996 world.

                            Either way, it all had to come apart, as I had to move the front swaybar bracket onto the rear coilovers.

                            This is because the 996 C2, the bolt that clamps the strut body onto the knuckle doubles up as your swaybar linkage bolt.

                            taking the fronts apart - that "L" shaped bracket you see on the left side of the photo is what i was removing. This also gave me the opportunity to set the coilovers to factory US gt2 height settings:



                            and the rear gets all the fancy new goodies.
                            new top mounts.
                            new washers(damn expensive washers at that)
                            new top nut

                            You can see the brackets i removed. theyre sitting next to my very disorganized tool box thing. looks like a mess, but i promise i know where everything is.



                            I also took the liberty to adjust these according to the factory US gt2 height settings
                            at this point im not sure why i didnt take pictures of the completed products. mustve flew past my mind.

                            Well onto today. Install day 1

                            Step 1: remove your calipers and the bracket holding the brake line to the knuckle. two large 10mm hex/allen bolts. These are Stretch bolts. Per Porsche, they must be replaced every time they are removed. I ordered enough to replace all 4, but will be ordering more to keep on hand. The new bolts were Torx heads(T55). I guess Porsche decided it's a better alternative? Not sure, but they were OEM and the correct length. It's not work risking your life over $10 worth of bolts.



                            Step 2: this is something that i have to warn everyone about. I do not recommend ANYBODY do this. I did this at my own discretion. I know the risks I was taking. The way these oem springs are designs, you need a very very fancy spring compressor to compress them while on the car. Without compressing the springs, you cannot remove oem springs/struts from the car. It's physically impossible.

                            That being said, I wasn't prepared to drop $150-$200 on a fancy spring compressor that I'm going to use once and throw in the corner. 99% of other vehicles can use a generic spring compressor which i already have.

                            An alternative method to what I did was to remove a subframe bracket which has four bolts, three different sized, and four different torque specs. Once that bracket is removed, you can loosen the eccentric bolt on the lower control arm to allow the arm to completely drop down.

                            I didn't want to do all this method since there is a chance you can shift the subframe around, which will cause odd caster and camber issues. I'll do it when it's time to replace those control arms.

                            While everything is connected and attached in the vehicle, use your jack to fully compress the strut and spring without actually lifting the vehicle up off the jack stands. use heavy duty zip ties that are rated at a 175lbs load(or higher) at the very minimum to zip tie the spring coils while it is compressed. Although only 4 zip ties are pictured, I used about 7 per side.

                            Once you do that, undo the top 3 nuts and the sway bar linkage holding that strut clamp shut.

                            Slowly and carefully lower the jack stand, pull the top of the strut out of the fender well and pull the strut out of the clamp. it should come out with ease

                            Once you do that, take that strut far away from anything and anyone. Put it up against a wall with the strut mount facing away, and use snips to cut the zip ties. I used additional zip ties and loosely placed them around the coils so it's not one large "jolt" and more so smalls steps of the spring un-compressing. Unforuntely, I didn't take any pictures of this process or the removal process. Though this process worked great, it is still very unsafe and I wanted to unload that spring ASAP.

                            Again I do not recommend this method to anyone. If you decide to use this method, do so at your own risk and safety. Loaded springs are very dangerous and can potentially kill.





                            Now comes the fun part.. air ducts.. kinda?

                            Porsche uses plastic guides to direct air toward the brakes to cool them. Naturally, the 996 C2 guides are small and wimpy while the GT3 ones are a bit more direct and functional

                            They're like $5 a pop. I had no reason to NOT install these lol





                            I replaced the front swaybar end links while I'm there.

                            the longer end goes through the knuckle to clamp the strut to the body. These took the longest to get, as OEM ones are nearly $130 a pop and the next best thing(Mevotech Supreme's) had to come from Canada since no US distributor had them in stock.

                            I will be getting adjustable ones in the future, but that will come along with aftermarket swaybars



                            Insert the front coilovers into the knuckle. Push down on the knuckle and get them under the fenders again. After this it's fairly simple

                            line up the top holes and jack up from the lower control arm



                            install the brake calipers and the brake line bracket



                            Torque everything to spec.

                            Calipers and Clamp Nut to 63ft-lbs
                            Swaybar End Nut to 35ft-lbs
                            Top Nuts to 25ft-lbs
                            Brake Line Bracket - 8ft-lbs

                            now double check all the nuts and bolts to make sure it's all tight again. You don't want to miss anything.

                            Now repeat this on the other side, throw your wheels on and look at how shitty your fitment is







                            I ordered 20mm spacers for the fronts(for now). The front wheels are god-awfully close to the coilovers. There's maybe a 2mm gap between the wheel/tire and the coilover spring

                            I don't like that(as some of you might know from my m3, i had similar issues and was playing with minimal 7mm clearances while trying not to destroy my fenders)

                            I do plan to get some 18x9 +43 oz's for the front which will solve that issue without any spacers, but at least with the 20mm spacers, I'll know how the 18x9 will fit with the fenders and can work on rolling/pull if needed

                            The rear suspension will hopefully go on this coming Saturday and ill toss in another update here

                            I should also note that in these pictures, the front coilovers are adjusted about 1" lower than factory recommended settings.

                            Due to the difference in the knuckle suspension geometry between the 996 c2 and the gt2, to achieve gt2 height, it might be set 1" lower

                            Thanks!
                            Last edited by sasquatchola; 06-29-2020, 10:12 PM.

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                            • #29
                              Yeah, spacers would do it some good.

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                              • #30
                                Originally posted by TexaZ3 View Post
                                Yeah, spacers would do it some good.
                                yea.. it definitely needs them

                                early update!
                                plans for today cleared up so i installed the rears.

                                first thing i did was go to roll my fenders.... and well my fender roller only does 4/5 lug with a PCD of 98-120mm
                                porsche being fancy and going with 5x130 meant my fender roller wouldnt mount the hub. no way to secure it.

                                I threw the suspension on anyways. I didnt really take pictures of the process. it's VERY straight forward.

                                remove swaybar linkage, remove one bolt on the bottom, remove 3 nuts on top. use a prybar to separate the lower end from the knuckle and it all just falls off.

                                i installed new rear swaybar linkages, since the gt2 coilovers use a slightly different mounting solution.
                                OEM porsche swaybar links are again.. $130ish. aftermarket solutions dont really exist for a gt3/2 rear since theyre the only one of their kind to use a rod that length/size

                                funny enough, a Mazda Protege with Sport suspension uses a swaybar linkage that is 0.2" longer. not really a big difference.. and its literally $30 for the pair. went with Mevotech Supreme as well since I really like their stuff as an "OE" replacement

                                rear fitment is spot on. first bump i hit will destroy my fenders... so time to start hunting for a roller that works. i might end up buying a single wheel adapter of of ebay(5x130-5x114.3) and using that to adapt my fender roller to the vehicle.

                                the rear fenders on these cars are TOUGH AS HELL to roll. typically some thin, large diameter PVC pipe does a great job without destroying paint or fenders, but id prefer using the roller on a hard metal quarter panel.

                                oh and here's a pic of my 3d printer cup holder. i essentially reverse engineered the ashtray in solidworks and modified it to support a cup base. there is an adapter piece that slides in for different sized bottles/cups. that part still needs some work, but this is all just a prototype before i stay to get them made in ABS












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