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1999 M3 Dinan supercharger install and continuous build

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  • 1999 M3 Dinan supercharger install and continuous build

    Hello all!

    I have a 1999 Estoril M3 with 133,xxx I have had for over two years now. I have always wanted one since 2008 but couldn't afford in since I was 16.

    I always looked at Dinan Superchargers as something I could never have and it was always something unattainable. Well, I got the car, and I found the supercharger. Now how to install it?

    I was worried about who would install. I was mostly concerned about expertise. I have talked to 3-4 shops and they all said different thing. Probably up selling, which is fine, but I wanted consistency, experience and reliability.

    Then I found Brett (Braymond141). He'll be posting updates on the progress.

    Very happy to have him install. He has a great reputation across two boards (that I know of). I have reviewed several of his restorations and I am extremely impressed. I feel very comfortable with him working on my car and I trust his recommendations.

    Notable performance variations to stock drivetrain and supercharger:

    Drivetrain - UUC light weight flywheel
    Engine is stock.

    Adding:
    Dinan 6.5 kit
    M50 manifold
    Dinan BBTB
    JP headers

    Click image for larger version  Name:	1838f91f0c65fa9d96b4a2ca448eb74c.jpg Views:	1 Size:	37.0 KB ID:	171

  • #2
    Day one with a quick compression test on the spot so Clay could know whether we're proceeding with the supercharger install or tucking his tail between is legs and taking the car home, lol. Tests came back just fine. 180-190 across all 6 @ 3000ft elevation.



    Easy method of rear badge refresh with a stripe sticker from here: http://www.donewhenimdead.com/garage...pe-replacement



    Glovebox was sagging and the trim piece was unable to lay flat due to the previous owner installing the glovebox wrong.







    Radio was installed incorrectly and the faded red center vent dots had to be fixed.









    Onto the engine work





    Cam sensor wiring. Can't stress this enough; if you have an original cam sensor, you need to buy a Genuine BMW (only!) sensor to replace it.



    Valves looking clean and free of carbon buildup.



    The usual E36 state of things.





    First round of degreasing and pressure wash.









    I also had to give the car a quick wash as the engine bay process gets water everywhere and I didn't want water spots. Your car looks quite good, Clay!



    Valve cover hardware looking sad and the valve cover is cruddy around the edges.





    Valvetrain looks great and confirms what the previous owner stated about the head being refreshed and ARP hardware added.





    VANOS tear down. Eventually wiped that pink highlighted timing arrow off with acetone. Previous owner or previous shop noob move. The factory arrow is all you need to look at...

    New OE BMW chain guide rail



    New OE INA cam chain tensioner



    New OE BMW cam sensor to resolve the cracking wires on the original shown earlier.



    New OE BMW clutch diaphragm spring and the mating surface plates flipped on both sides for fresh contact patches with the spring.





    VANOS needed a rebuild, seals and rattle fix. I forgot to take a pic of the VANOS body before, but it required glass media blasting to make it look this good.








    MSportParts | Braymond141

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    • #3

      My zinc hardware reserves are getting low, but I'm replacing what I can where applicable.







      Valve cover thoroughly cleaned





      Restored the cap nuts and washers for the valve cover. Silver paint followed by a matte clear to get a similar match to the OE ZNS3 (zinc flake) coating.





      Oil filter housing before/after. Just going to clean here, no blasting as it would add considerable time to this project.









      The coolant hard line that comes off the front front timing cover can develop leaks at the orings. A fresh set was installed.



      Cap nut restoration went better than expected. The repaint held up extremely well to the install process.





      Previous owner deleted the throttle body coolant lines. I added them back.



      Coming together.



      Quick refresh on the alternator pulley.





      Boost, coming very soon.



      MSportParts | Braymond141

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      • #4

        Made some good progress today.

        Manifold all stripped after sitting in the simple green tank for two days. No more carbon buildup inside and the true condition shown (scratches, fading, etc).



        Restored with Forever Black






        Dinan bracket needed some help and the pulley was missing parts.





        Fixed



        Supercharger oil feed installed



        Vortech really doesn't do the best job rebuilding their own superchargers (I do better ) Dirty in the crevices and none of the barbs/plugs have been resealed.







        Prepping the M50 manifold for use. 3mm vacuum port and 6mm port added.





        RallyRoad M50 ICV fitting and boost proof silicone hose kit.



        Tucked SAP solenoid with vacuum line holes drilled through the M50.



        Supercharger mounted! All new stainless steel hardware, powdercoated top/bottom legs, and the main bracket was cleaned.







        MSportParts | Braymond141

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        • #5

          One of my least favorite parts about the Dinan kit; removing the airbox mounting brackets and the horn bracket.





          Clay is running Apexcone euro lights so fitting the intake piping took a few hours to get right.







          Intake manifold back on with the Dinan throttle body installed.



          Getting close!




          MSportParts | Braymond141

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          • #6

            Remade all the applicable CARB stickers for his legal parts. All of them vary in sizing so I standardized the lot of them.



            Cowl cover refreshed (was faded white where the sun seeps through the cowl mesh).



            Clay was missing the Dinan dipstick that adds the SC drain provision. I had to make one.



            T9 MAF scaler wired into the harness (forgot to take pics with the cowl harness opened).



            MAF extension harness made.





            Header swap was next. Turner/JP CARB legal shorties.







            All of the studs reinstalled in the head.



            and fast-forward through all the agonizing bits... I did clean the block and head, just didn't photograph this.







            Cleaned the motor mount arm, heat shields and installed new motor mounts. Both sides





            Installed a set of my transmission tunnel insulation braces. His insulation was just starting to wear on the driveshaft.





            Fuel filter cover looking horrid and this car strangely still had the CDV (previously used as a track car).





            Modified M50 fuel injector cover and S62 oil separator installed.



            Replaced his fan shroud with one that wasn't all cut up. His Mishimoto isn't a great fitting radiator, but it will serve him fine for now.





            Vacuum filled the cooling system with 33% BMW coolant and 66% distilled water.



            OEM eplacement hood latch bolts came in. So much nicer than sheet metal screws, ugh!



            New mid section rubber mounts were required



            Finally a driving car again and ready for delivery... or so I falsely thought




            MSportParts | Braymond141

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            • #7

              The car was finished almost a week ago and I drove it to Clay in San Jose (180 miles) to deliver it to him... only to find out there was something seriously not right. Check engine light came on soon as I arrived in San Jose and the adaptions said it was pulling 12 degrees of timing out and pulling out 8% fuel (which makes no sense).





              Took the car back home the next day and then went through a whole mess of replacement parts. New fuel filter (his wasn't terribly old), new O2 sensors, another set of fuel injectors, another MAF, fuel pressure test at the rail, FPR test in my bench rig and then scoured the tune for some anomaly.





              Ignore it saying 3.75bar. I had my air line set at 120psi. Dialed it back to stock like fuel pressures and it read 3.5bar after purging off excess.



              After that it was still throwing codes and pulling massive timing.

              Finally found the issue after probing the most unlikely of suspects... the T9 scaler he was sold with his kit was fried. His versus mine;





              Fried ground traces.



              Replaced the T9 and that fixed the issue (as of today). The car is finally ready for Clay to enjoy! Normal fuel adaptions and timing.



              MSportParts | Braymond141

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              • #8
                Nice work, Brett! Looks like you’ve got a great car, Clay.
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