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Transmission removal rear main seal

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  • Transmission removal rear main seal

    my clutch pedal was vibrating when resting on the pedal and made an awful noise when pushed. shifts were fine in all gears. Moving off in first was where the driveability of my full stock 2003 was not up to snuff...

    i reviewed the fcpeuro tutorial and the following was suggested. I'll provide some timing and insight as I go along.

    Its getting cold here in Toronto area so doing this work in my garage with 4 x 6 ton jack stands, couple jacks and a motorcycle jack to catch the transmission

    1. remove metal plate - bunch of 16mm bolts
    2. remove exhaust - stripped the mid pipe to header pipe... had to cut off with sawsall - took two nights and some struggling - 5 hours
    3. heat shields out
    4. transmission cross member out - support trans of course
    5. drive shaft remove bunch of e12 torx
    6. flex disc/ guibo out with 18mm wrenches
    7. shifter, clips, pull of knob from the top (just brute force it off), shifter mechanism out
    8. reverse switch,
    9. transmission first undo e10 x 3, then e12 torx holding the starter, then the 4 x e14 - two long ones on the bottom, two short on top - struggled and had to lower the engine subframe - this took three attempts about 2-3 hours each and finally go it out after being stuck on the starter... lots of scratches on the starter... i would pull the intake and pull starter back in future removals
    10. engine subframe, support under the steering rack, back off 4 x 18mm bolts, screw back in 3 turns, lower jack and engine tilts - i saw tutorial to remove the fan first though it did not rub (and I didn't have the 32mm skinny tool - on order)
    11. pressure plate - 6 x 6mm allen
    12. flywheel - 19mm (8) and need to use a second wrench to jam into the tunnel to counter hold - pretty sure not the factory tech method...\
    13. pilot bearing remove (not yet)
    14. rear main seal - 4 x 10mm and 2 x 13mm - i was going to drain the oil then removed to see if an oil leaks out.. only while its running!

    observations:
    clutch release / throw out bearing completely done
    pilot bearing not smooth
    pivot arm - looks okay,
    spring - haven't yet removed
    pivot pin - haven't checked
    flywheel - looks really good and smooth - can i bring in somewhere to check?
    clutch - still has lots of meat - oem bmw clutch
    pressure plate - looks good and no play when turning / twisting the whole flywheel

    questions:

    what should i keep? How do i check if clutch, pressure plate and flywheel are still good?

    my m3 has 310,000 kms with mostly street driving and 3 track events a year...



  • #2
    regarding what to keep?

    I should also ask about the hardware... 6mm allens, transmission bolts, flywheel bolts, exhaust hardware... are they copper nuts with the e12 torx bolts? my exhaust rears 12mm copper nuts came out quite nicely... the header to midpipe not so smooth...

    Comment


    • #3
      Guide tube, clutch fork, pivot pin are WEAR items and you must replace them every clutch job. They directly effect clutch throw and actuation smoothness. Do not skip these and do not buy a brass pivot pin (OE plastic or OE stainless only). Obviously the throwout bearing and pilot bearing are also wear items.

      If you have no record of the flywheel being replaced, replace it.
      If you do not know the last time the clutch kit was replaced, replace it. You can measure the thickness. If I remember later, I'll mic a new disc I have on hand. If you decide to reuse the clutch kit, you're going to need to reset the pressure plate. YouTube how to do this.

      Pressure plate bolts are listed as one time use. I can't say I agree, but I replace them anyway and they are not that expensive.
      Flywheel bolts are listed as one time use. I believe this is because of the preapplied thread sealant (to keep oil from the crankcase coming out of the crank hub bolt holes). I always replace them, but in a bind I wouldn't hesitate to reuse them cleaned and with thread sealant reapplied.

      MSportParts | Braymond141

      Comment


      • #4
        Thanks for advice. I have my order coming from six different places through rockauto and some local for stuff that they didn't have.

        ordered a stage 2r clutch from clutchamerica. sachs lwf, pressure plate, clutchmax stage 2 clutch with four springs

        upon further inspection of the clutch, it looks like have the luk oem. can still see the lines / grooves of both sides of the pp and dual mass flywheel. likely been changed one other time in the life of this 310,000 km m3 of mine. The clutch was crispy and thin and showed wear on the outer half of the friction material where the 'grooves' had worn down to nothing whereas the inner half of the friction material, you could see some grooves still - original oem bmw clutch with no springs. The springs are on the PP.

        I used a slice of bread, 4 sheets of copy paper and water with steel rod to bump out the pilot bearing. It was 'grainy' sounding and replaced with FAG. The throw out bearing - likely the problem causing the shuddering in my left foot while just barely resting on the clutch pedal was loose, broken and sounds like a maraca.

        I ordered input, output, shift shaft seals and the shift rod bushing which is the strange cylinder shaped metal holder with rubber bushing that is located rearward of the shift rod and removed with two flat head screw drivers... also the shift rod bushing that is oval shaped and closer to front of car...

        Also order new white plastic shift ball bushing / holder part. mine looks old and dirty with no lube... using a 330Diesel euro shifter as short shifter... and want to lengthen the shifter six inches... suggestions?

        also pulled the intake to make starter install easier and looking to plug up one or two holes on the bottom of the manifold and use catch can so no more oily fumes from valve cover... perhaps I'll start a new thread.

        so ordered the specialty 32mm wrench to remove the fan and will look at a couple other potential leaks: power steering reservoir, entire bottle is lightly soaked in oil and dirt get stuck to it, small leak?
        ordered oil filter housing gasket which requires removing:

        fan, shroud, belts, alternator, roller/pulley/tensioner(?), then the oil filter housing, replace that $5 gasket that gets hard as hockey puck, then re assemble... while in there look at power steering and perhaps replace failing rubber lines or hose clamps or fittings...

        also ordered new transmission mounts and cannot tell if the existing ones are 'old' or have been replaced...



        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Braymond141 View Post
          Guide tube, clutch fork, pivot pin are WEAR items and you must replace them every clutch job. They directly effect clutch throw and actuation smoothness. Do not skip these and do not buy a brass pivot pin (OE plastic or OE stainless only). Obviously the throwout bearing and pilot bearing are also wear items.

          If you have no record of the flywheel being replaced, replace it.
          If you do not know the last time the clutch kit was replaced, replace it. You can measure the thickness. If I remember later, I'll mic a new disc I have on hand. If you decide to reuse the clutch kit, you're going to need to reset the pressure plate. YouTube how to do this.

          Pressure plate bolts are listed as one time use. I can't say I agree, but I replace them anyway and they are not that expensive.
          Flywheel bolts are listed as one time use. I believe this is because of the preapplied thread sealant (to keep oil from the crankcase coming out of the crank hub bolt holes). I always replace them, but in a bind I wouldn't hesitate to reuse them cleaned and with thread sealant reapplied.
          Curious to see why you don't recommend brass pivot pins?

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by TexaZ3 View Post

            Curious to see why you don't recommend brass pivot pins?
            This happens after a few thousand miles.

            https://www.instagram.com/p/BnuPuo4n..._web_copy_link

            MSportParts | Braymond141

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Braymond141 View Post

              This happens after a few thousand miles.

              https://www.instagram.com/p/BnuPuo4n..._web_copy_link
              I see. Same thing happened to my OE plastic, though.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by TexaZ3 View Post

                I see. Same thing happened to my OE plastic, though.
                Those do wear out, but not like brass. Plastic are standard fit on all manual transmissions except for these three vehicles;

                60-100k miles or more on the plastic is to be expected.

                MSportParts | Braymond141

                Comment

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