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  • O2 Sensor Question

    Getting ready to reinstall my exhaust after a clutch swap and figured I would swap out the very old downstream O2 sensors while it is out. I forgot to label the chassis connectors for bank 1 and 2 (Right vs Left tube). Anyone know off hand. One of the connectors is closer to the rear of the car than the other so there is a good reference point. Thanks! I guess I could leave one unhooked and see which side is generating data on my scanner as an option...

    Dave

  • #2
    Does this help?

    Click image for larger version

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    Joe's 1998 M3 Journal

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    • #3
      I'm fairly certain you can't get it wrong. One is shorter than the other and the way they connect is very obvious in that the short one goes to the closest O2 and the longer goes to the furthest O2.

      Same logic applies to the precat sensors and harness side connectors.

      MSportParts | Braymond141

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      • #4
        As usual Braymond141 is right..... sort of.... I should know this hook up. When I first bought my ‘99 the previous owner had them backwards and took me a while to troubleshoot shoot, but it’s been too long, don’t remember. In my notes somewhere. Bank 2 is closest to firewall? You’ll know if the connection is backwards cause it’ll run really weird. But again Braymond141 is right as long as the wires are run in there proper place the top side hook up is obvious.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by M3VoM View Post
          As usual Braymond141 is right..... sort of.... I should know this hook up. When I first bought my ‘99 the previous owner had them backwards and took me a while to troubleshoot shoot, but it’s been too long, don’t remember. In my notes somewhere. Bank 2 is closest to firewall? You’ll know if the connection is backwards cause it’ll run really weird. But again Braymond141 is right as long as the wires are run in there proper place the top side hook up is obvious.
          Good point. I should have noted that it's only obvious if the wires are routed in their original positions. If you skip over the holders then it is less obvious what goes where.

          MSportParts | Braymond141

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          • #6
            I came back here to see if anyone replied and to say that it was very obvious where things went once I routed the wiring. Thanks for the replies. Just changed the oil, reinstalled the X-brace and as soon as I get my new engine mount nuts torqued down...start up! : -) Anyone else get nervous if they installed the rear main seal and trans seals correctly. I used the factory drift on the rear main so feel pretty good about that one. I'm going to let it run up on the quick jack enough for the oil to get warm and shut it down to look for leaks.
            Man with the Redline MTL, rebuilt RE shifter and new detents, the trans feels like it is full of warm butter. Friggin' awesome difference.
            Last edited by DaveydM3; 12-08-2020, 12:54 PM.

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            • #7
              Rear man seal can be a pain.
              Trans seals, not so much. Good luck!
              Joe's 1998 M3 Journal

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              • #8
                I can see how it would be easy to mess up. The money I spent on the drift is well worth not having to take the trans off again. I think it was about $50 and it seated it perfectly in the housing. Used the installation tool to slide it carefully on the crankshaft as well. Fingers crossed!

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                • #9
                  All buttoned up! Had to remove and re-bleed the new clutch slave by pushing the rod in while cracking the bleeder. Pressure bleeding wasn't enough by itself. Car shifts silky smooth now. NO LEAKS!!!! I used Redline MTL with the new 14lb JB flywheel and sprung disk. I have 0 rattle even with AC running. Couldn't be happier. Now to fix the clunking diff bushings and install my new Bimmerworld wheel stud kit.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by DaveydM3 View Post
                    All buttoned up! Had to remove and re-bleed the new clutch slave by pushing the rod in while cracking the bleeder. Pressure bleeding wasn't enough by itself. Car shifts silky smooth now. NO LEAKS!!!! I used Redline MTL with the new 14lb JB flywheel and sprung disk. I have 0 rattle even with AC running. Couldn't be happier. Now to fix the clunking diff bushings and install my new Bimmerworld wheel stud kit.
                    It will cause gear rattle. Give it time. EVERYONE says how happy they are at first and then it's just downhill from there.

                    MSportParts | Braymond141

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                    • #11
                      Got the trans nice and warm....it rattles a little now. But not bad. The downhill from there comment has me a little concerned tho... It is what it is...

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